Sitting in Taormina just under Mount Etna, looking at the steep narrow roads climbing up the cliff, and at the many boats sailing in the clear blue sparkling water of the Mediterranean in the sunshine, sipping a glass of cold Carricante, next to a table bursting with colors, flavors, aromas and textures of fried fish, sardines, seafood, red tomatoes, arancini, olive oil, citrus, pasta, meat, spices, bread, cheese and cannoli. Yesterday we visited the fish market in the early morning, then archaeological and important human heritage sites. Tomorrow it will be music, art, beautifully made ceramic pieces and perhaps a local festival. But today… let’s just enjoy the cold white wine and absorb the beauty of it all. Welcome to Sicilia!

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Location, History & Climate

Sicilia consists of a large island (and several tiny islands), just south of the Italian “boot”, less than 10km of the Italian mainland and some 600 km from Tunisia.  Due to its strategic position in the crossroads connecting eastern with western Mediterranean, and mainland Italy and Europe with northern Africa, Sicilia has changed hands frequently throughout the ages, was invaded from every direction possible, divided, passed hands and united time and again.  Each conqueror influenced the island in some way, yet throughout the centuries, Sicilians have successfully blended all influences into their own identity. Sicilia today is a fascinating blend of its rich history and culture, with a distinct, unique, proud local identity, deeply rooted in its rich history and culture, arts, music, gastronomic and archeological heritage. It is one of the few regions of Italy that are an autonomous region.  

  

The main island is triangular in shape, mostly hilly, with valleys and beaches, few dormant volcanoes and, of course, one very much alive volcano - Mount Etna. The climate consists of several microclimates. In most of Sicilia, the climate is Mediterranean (mild rainy winters, hot dry summers) with strong north African influences (that can up the temperatures to 50 degrees in summer, and very little rain, especially in the southern part). At the same time, Sicilia's mountains are over 1000 meters, typically white in winter, with an almost Alpine climate.   

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Wine Cultivation Tradition

Sicilians had been cultivating vineyards and producing wine since thousands of years ago. The Greeks (and later the Romans) gave a further boost to viniculture and exporting. In ancient times, Sicilian wines were considered among the best wines, a gift from gods, fit for kings and nobility. Over the years, like other popular wine regions, short-medium term commercial interests were not sufficiently balanced by medium-longer considerations. As a result, yesterday’s superior wines were reduced into simple, even cooking wines. In recent years, thanks to efforts of several Sicilian wine producers, Sicilia is gradually regaining awareness and interest as more quality wines are produced, including natural, organic, and biodynamic wines and more importantly - Mount Etna wines.  

 

Mount Etna Wines

What does an active volcano have to do with wine? What is so special about wines produced from those vineyards? Actually, given Sicilia‘s southernmost location and its sunny warm/hot dry Mediterranean climate, one would expect hot climate wines. While this is of course true, there is another, quite surprising new sub-region - the active volcano, fondly called “Mamma” or “La Muntagne” by Sicilians.

 

It is the big Mamma because its altitude is over 3.3 km. Like every mamma, most of the time “she” is benevolent and generous to “her children” (the people living in her vicinity) and, like a mother, sometimes “she” loses “her” temper. The Sicilians have a unique deep “love-respect-fear” relationship with the mountain. Actually, Mount Etna has a large “main” crater like a typical volcano, and to make things more interesting, La Mamma covers a large area, with multiple peaks and ridges and eruptions can occur anywhere. Driving up in the mountain area, one passes villages that have been completely buried in lava and hear stories about an enormous wall of lava (some 10 meters high) that was moving towards a village, then suddenly, inexplicably it stopped, some 500 meters from where the first house is standing. When one stands in front of this giant lava wall, one realizes how close the village came to be destroyed, and how fragile man is against the forces of nature. 

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However in quieter times, when La Mamma is snoring peacefully, Sicilians will go chestnut, strawberry and pistachio picking and picnicking, tourists will climb up to the permitted height (2km) to see the thin white smoke against the wide black lava, and the vines will grow. The soil of Mount Etna area is very fertile, rich with minerals and nutrients. In recent years, more vineyards are planted, at an altitude up to 1,000 meters, chancing it against the volcano, so far successfully. The heat of the bright Sicilian sun shining in the clear blue sky is offset by the chilliness of the air at this altitude. Varieties typically found in much colder climates, like Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir, grow happily. In fact, among the most interesting white varieties growing on the mountain are Riesling and Carricante (a local variety), making surprisingly outstanding wines.  

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Mount Etna local red varieties like Nerello Mascalese (varietal or in blends) and Nerello Cappuccio (typically blended), are misleadingly delicate in color,  seemingly docile and gentle - until you taste them. These reds have a fierce palate, dusty, bitter, acidic, spicy, red fruits, earthy, minerality - the taste of a volcano. 

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The whites (varietals or blends) produced from Mount Etna, like the  local Carricante, are sharp, citrus (even zesty), fennel, mineral, fruit, ash, bergamot spices, honey flavors. These wines can be oaked/unoaked depending on the producer, with colors ranging from clear bright to the orange color of burning lava.  

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There are also international blends growing on the Etna, like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Syrah, to name a few. The international varieties typically have a lighter color and a unique mineral flavor, different from their “home region”. The quality of Mount Etna wines may vary with vintages. 

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Sicilian (non Etna) Wines

Away from La Mamma, the main red grape is Nero d’Avola (also called Calabrese). The wines are dark deep color, medium-low acidity, medium-soft tannins with flavors of spices, leather and black fruit, varietal or blended. The quality ranges from simple wines to complex “big” wines.  

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The most known white “non-Etna” wine is Marsala, a blend made principally with Grillo (soft, medium body, slightly acidic, peach, light), Inzolia and Cataratto. For several centuries vineyards and wineries were under English ownership and wines produced followed English preference for fortified wines, like port, sherry and madeira. Unfortunately, quality dropped significantly over time and Marsala became a cooking wine. Recently, a few wineries are producing excellent Marsala wines from Grillo grapes (as the principal grape) using the “Solera” blending method, oak aging and wise composition of the blend. Marsala ranges from dry to sweet, and from “oro” (golden) to “rubino” (ruby).  

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Sicilia has only one DOCG wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Nero d’Avola blended with the floral variety Frappato and Syrah (adding complexity and tannins). There are also DOC wines, however, like in other parts of Italy, many producers prefer to experiment and produce wines that they feel passionate about, without following the strict rules. As a result, there can be found some truly excellent IGT wines at very reasonable prices, reflecting the winemaker's philosophy and style. 

 

Sicilian wines are produced in all styles, red, white, spumante, rose and sweet. 

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